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"A
Flower Toque"
from The
Ladies’ Home Companion, June 1890
Flowers
are in great favor, and form the chief trimming for both hats and
bonnets. Favorite colors are shades of heliotrope, bright scarlet,
green and amber. Among the flowers introduced are violets, single
and Neapolitan, pansies, lilacs, cowslips, roses and forget-me-nots,
the latter being a good deal used with moss-green velvet and tulle.
The fashionable flower toque is made on a wire shape with roleaux
of ribbon velvet or piece velvet joined in strips and tightly
twisted, if preferred. A wreath of flowers is arranged to fall over
the second roleau, the center of the crown being finished
with a spray and bow of ribbon velvet.
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| 1. Wire
shape for toque. |
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| 2. Showing
first twist (or roleau) in place. |
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| 3. Second
roleau in place. |
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| 4. Flowers on
crown. |
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| 5. Bow for back
of toque. |
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| 6. Flower toque
complete. |
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Any
of the flowers before mentioned are suitable for this hat, and are
suitably combined with black ribbon velvet, while coronets, sprays
and clusters of flowers can be had ready mounted for use. Colored
velvet, if the flowers are nicely blended, is in good taste, as for
instance, brown velvet with pink flowers, forget-me-nots with a soft
shade of olive green, pale violets with deep violet velvet, etc.
Some very dressy hats are made with the rouleaux
of contrasting shades. One is in exquisitely soft tones of green and
helitrope velvet, with pansy wreath and spray. One pretty hat of
this description has rouleaux
of green velvet, and in place of flowers a jet coronet above; on
another, fans of black lace and a jet butterfly finished the
crown. The shapes for these hats are made of ribbon wire or round
wire; the former is preferable, as it holds the stitches best.
Flower
toques are very simply made. Begin by covering the wires neatly with
velvet, sarcenet, ribbon or anything handy. In doing this, take all
long stitches on the outside of the shape; there will be no
head-lining, and the inside should be kept as neat as possible.
Now
twist the velvet on the shape to form the first rouleau.
This will take one and one half yards of ribbon velvet. Begin from
the back, and try to make the twist as soft and careless as
possible; to look stiff will spoil it. Do not turn the velvet over
the wire inside the shape; this takes up the room inside the crown,
but twist it over and over entirely on the outside, and sew firmly
here and there between the folds to the wire.
Show
as little as possible of the satin back of the velvet, and when
twisting over make a plait in the under part of the twist which
comes next the wire; this helps to make it fold looser. At the sides
the velvet should fall over the shape from about three fourths to
one inch, at the back not quite so much. In front, a pretty finish
is made by forming the velvet into three short loops to stand out a
trifle from the shape. The center loop must, of course, come exactly
in the front.
The
second roleau or twist is formed in the same way, but without loops in the
front. When this is done, catch the top part of these loops to the
upper roleau so as to keep
them in place. Now arrange the wreath, which should not be too wide,
and looks well to be a little higher and fuller in the front. Let
the wreath fall a little over the upper roleau,
and sew it firmly here and there to the third wire.
Look
at the illustration while arranging the flowers; you will see that
they stand up nicely above the crown all around; at the back the
wreath is, of course, quite narrow. Next, sew on the spray, which
should be mixed with foliage. It is sewn on towards the back, some
of the flowers to stand up high, while others bend towards the
front.
Make
a stylish bow of ribbon velvet, like the illustration, using about
three-fourths of a yard. Fish-tail the end and double it over a
trifle, plait the loops tightly at the base, and twist the cotton
around and around several times after sewing, to make them stand up.
Refer to the illustration of the finished hat, and sew this bow on
the crown, let the loops mix in prettily with the flowers in the
spray, the two sloping towards the front. Catch them down to the
wires crossing the crown, but only sew them at the extreme edge, and
be careful not to flatten them. Catch the high part of the spray to
the ribbon velvet and about half way down. Lastly, pull out the
flowers and make them look as graceful as possible.
...from
The Ladies’ Home Companion, June 1890
Les Chapeaux, Journal de Printemps
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More Info: How
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