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HARPER'S
BAZAR: DECEMBER 15, 1877
MISS
VANDERBILT'S TROUSSEAU.
[Victorian Weddings & Fashion]
The elegant trousseau prepared for Miss
Vanderbilt has claimed so much public notice of late that we have taken special pains to
lay the details of it before our readers, who may be glad to profit by the useful
suggestions afforded by so many tasteful toilettes. Several dress-makers have claimed the
credit of making it, and various journals have spoken of it as imported from Paris. The
latter rumor arose from the fact that a description of the materials woven in Lyons for
the bride's dress was given in the Bazar (No. 43, Vol. X.), and was copied by the Paris
correspondent of the London Queen. Although the fabrics are necessarily Parisian,
Miss Vanderbilt did not import her dresses, but preferred, with commendable patriotism, to
have them made by an American modiste, Mrs. Connelly, whose fine styles are frequently
quoted in our columns, and through whose courtesy we were allowed to inspect the
trousseau.
The wedding dress was the handsomest seen in New York since that of
Nellie Grant, which was made by the same modiste. It consisted of an empress train and
corsage of the richest brocaded white satin, with an apron of plain satin nearly covered
with lace, pearl passementerie, and bouquets of orange blossoms. The lace, said to be the
finest of its kind ever brought to this country, was point applique, bordered with round
point, and ornamented with medallions of point de Venise. The front of the
brocaded corsage was a round waist, with a wide belt formed of five satin folds fastened
by a bouquet; the neck was high behind, with a standing collar, while the Pompadour square
front was filled in with lace, on which was laid pearl points embroidered on tulle. Below
this were the clinging satin front breadths, on which three deep flounces were laid
diagonally and headed by satin folds and the beaded trimming. These flounces began high on
the right side, descended to the first seam on the left side, where they each formed a
point to hold a bouquet, and thence sloped upward, trimming elaborately the left side gore
that is more plainly seen than the right side, which is next the groom in walking; across
the foot of the three plain satin breadths was a deep satin flounce shirred in clusters,
with a bouquet in each space between the shirrings, and this flounce fell over a
knife-pleating of satin that edged the dress. The empress back, beginning with five long
seams at the shoulders, sloped smoothly low over the tournure, whence the rich brocade
formed a court train, cut in very deep leaf points, under which were five rows of satin
knife-pleating. The back was three yards long, yet the flowing breadths were not looped,
but fell in easy graceful folds. A long deep panel was formed down the middle of the train
with lace and pearl passementerie. The sleeves were long duchesse shape, made entirely of
the transparent lace, with two ruffles falling on the wrists, and held by a cluster of
blossoms. The graceful train was supported by a fan made of two gored breadths of
crinoline from the waist to the end, shaped like the skirt, and covered with flounces of
muslin and lace; this fan was sewed in beneath the train, and moves with it. A small
bouquet was in the left corner of the square neck, and another high on the right side. The
lace and pearl trimmings on this dress were so rich that but few flowers were used, and
these, according to the newest fancy, were all in bouquets instead of long garlands. The
veil of lace, combining Venice and round point, was fastened with orange flowers.
Among the richest of the evening dresses of this outfit was a dress of
sulphur-colored brocade combined with plain gros grain, and trimmed with wide Valenciennes
lace and tulle embroidered with pearls; the train was ninety-five inches long; the sleeves
were of white chenille in open square meshes held by pearls. A handsome costume with a
jacket to match, for the street, was of plum-colored brocade and velvet, trimmed with
bands of silk and velvet; a large gold buckle fastened the belt of this corsage, and
another held up the drapery in the back. A visiting and reception dress was of maroon
velvet, trimmed with wide bands of cocks' feathers of the same shade. A second rich
costume was of black brocaded silk and plain silk.
One of the handsomest house dresses was a black silk made in princesse
shape, with transparent sleeves entirely of mordore beads, alternating with clair de
lune; one side gore was also covered with this beaded trimming, while the scarf apron
fronts crossed each other and were fastened on one side of the train. A bouquet of dark
red damask roses with buds of the yellow tea-roses is worn at the belt of this dress. For
morning dresses was one purely white wrapper of India cashmere, trimmed with marabout
feathers and Mechlin lace; a second wrapper had a train of pale gray camel's-hair, with
front of pink silk, trimmed with Valenciennes lace; around the train was a band of gray
ostrich feathers holding pleatings of pink and gray silk.
The dress in which the bride's mother accompanied her daughter to the
altar was pearl-color, with an apron of gros grain, a brocaded Pompadour basque, and long
princesse back with flowing train. Three curved rows of duchesse lace, in which were
medallions of round point, entirely covered the apron breadths, and were caught on
the sides with bows of silk finished with tassels of strung pearls. The square neck was
trimmed with lace and pearls fastened by a cluster of pale pink roses. The train hangs in
folds without being caught up at a single point; it is trimmed up each side with lace, and
across the bottom with pleated and gathered flounces; the sleeves have lace inserted their
whole length.
The bride's sister, Mrs. Shepherd, wore ciel blue brocaded silk
with postilion basque, and flowing train with revers, while the plain blue silk front of
the skirt was trimmed with a garniture of velvet embroidery, representing olive shaded
leaves and pink blossoms that looked as if painted on the silk; below this rare
needle-work was lace in rows held by pink rose-buds.
Another sister, Mrs. Sloane, wore cream-colored armure silk, with the
train cut in deep points on pleatings of satin, while the sides and front were concealed
by panel trimmings of Valenciennes lace, headed by embroidery in which gold and pearls
were introduced; the sleeves were entirely of Valenciennes lace; down one side of the
dress were sprays of red and tea roses, while the train was held on the opposite side with
a jabot of satin loops and lace. A more youthful dress for a younger sister not yet in
society was of white gauze embroidered with leaves, and trimmed with embroidered scalloped
flounces and puffs of plain gauze. This dress had a deep round apron over-skirt caught up
high on the left with white roses and satin ribbon loops to show satin pleatings on the
skirt; down the other side were sprays of roses and buds. The pretty postilion basque had
a satin belt in front fastened on one side by a bow of ribbon with long ends.
How To
Cite This Article:
"Miss
Vanderbilt's Trousseau", December 15, 1877
[electronic edition]. Harper's Bazaar, Nineteenth Century
Fashion Magazine,
http://harpersbazaar.victorian-ebooks.com (2005).
MORE INFO:
Victorian Fashion: Find information and web
sites about Victorian clothing and Victorian fashion. Visit
museums with real Victorian clothing and view Victorian
fashion prints.
To Gather Orange Blossoms:
Through the centuries, brides have always worn some form of
headdress. Of all bridal customs and traditions, wearing a circlet, wreath
or coronet of flowers or greenery on the head is the one that seems to
best represent the bridal legend, and be the most consistent.
Smile!
Victorian Wedding Photography:
Early
wedding photography... see wedding
photographs of early 20th century brides and grooms from The Library of
Congress
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