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DIRECTIONS AND
PATTERN TO MAKE A VICTORIAN GENTLEMAN'S SHIRT
from Godey's
Lady's Book and Magazine, 1857
"The pattern given is the size for a shirt for an ordinary-sized man. Of
course, it must be altered according to the size wanted, increasing or
decreasing in regular proportion."
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- Having cut all your pieces accurately,
commence the making by hemming the flaps all around.
- Baste the shoulder
binders on very evenly, hemming the back ones on two sides, leaving the
armhole and neck to be sewed with the yoke and sleeve.
- Sew the front
binder only at the bottom, the rest to be sewed with the yoke, sleeve, and
bosom.
- The woven bosom is now almost universally used. If
made, the
tucks must be very accurately run, or they will not iron smoothly. Put in
the bosom, dividing the fullness of the shirt, and facing it down on to the
bosom.
- Sew up the two sides of the shirt next.
- Put in the side-gussets.
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Gather the back of the shirt, and sew on the yoke, hemming the outside and
inside down separately. The front of the yoke to the shoulder should be
nicely stitched.
- Make the sleeves, setting on the wristband before sewing
up the sleeve. After putting on the wristband, sew Up the sleeve and put
in the sleeve gussets, allowing half the length of the wristband for the
length of the slit. Put in the sleeves, gathering them at the top, and
sewing the shirt down first and then the binder.
- The wristbands should
have three button-holes in each; one with a button sewed on, and two
exactly opposite to each other for the sleeve buttons now so much worn.
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The binding round the neck includes the bosom and yoke.
- Two button-holes
and buttons before, and a button behind to fasten the collar. Make the
button-holes in the bosom, if for studs, different ways ; the outside ones
lengthwise and the inside crosswise.
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