In order to merit the designation of a well-dressed Victorian gentleman, you must pay attention, not only to the more prominent articles of your wardrobe, coat, pants, and vest, but to the more minute details.
Men’s Victorian clothing in the 1870s is closer fitting than has been seen for many years. Both morning frock coats and other garments that are close-fitting are double-breasted while the looser fitting styles are generally single-breasted. Lapels are either nearly square at top or are cut so that the notch may be of the open “V” form. The crease of the turnover is now a little longer than it has been for some time. Men’s Victorian waistcoats or vests are often designed double-breasted. For morning wear, the double-breasted waistcoats have the turnovers covered with quilted silk. For evening wear, vests are of the straight form without collar or shawl, opened low, and richly embroidered down the edges of the opening.
Victorian trousers are of medium width and rather closer fitting in the legs. They are slightly gaiter formed at bottom with this shape obtained by short openings at the bottoms of side seams. Overcoats and other outdoor garments have facings and trimmings of velvet or fur in every variety of style. The University Jacket style has the facings and edges trimmed with fur and fastens by loops of braid. Sleeves are nearly the same in width at elbow and wrist, and are made with cuffs which are at times covered with velvet.
Features a suit of grey Scotch stripe; the coat is the single-breasted university style with short turnovers closing by two buttons on the chest. The edges are plain and there are pockets in the back pleats. The sleeves have cuffs and two buttons at the seams. The suit includes a single-breasted university waistcoat and trousers.
Victorian
Visiting Costume
Suit features a double-breasted Newmarket coat of black cloth with the edges bound with narrow braid. The turnovers descend nearly to the waist and the fronts are intended to be worn unbuttoned. There is a double-breasted waistcoat of buff drill with all the edges ornamented by white braid laid on flat. The trousers are of grey Angola.
Victorian
Promenade Suit
Suit with a single-breasted morning jacket of dark brown ribbed worsted coating with the edges and cuffs bound with fine braid. The turnovers are long and well thrown back, and there are pockets on the hips covered by square flaps. The front edges and skirts are cut away with the corners well rounded off. The sleeves have fancy cuffs with two buttons at the hind arm seams. The suit includes a collarless waistcoat of white fancy quilting and bright brown stripe trousers.
Victorian
Evening Costume
Featuring a dress coat of black superfine cloth and lined with black glace silk. The black poplin waistcoat has the shawl form opening very low and has a second or under shawl imitated by a fold of white silk. The trousers are of black cashmere.
Victorian
Morning Costume
Featuring a single-breasted lounging jacket of blue melton or worsted coating. The jacket is cut to fall nearly square and has short turnovers. The front edge is cut away with the corners well rounded off. The edges, including the skirt and breast pockets, are bound with narrow braid and there are cuffs edged with the same, with an opening at the arm seam and fastened by one button. The suit includes a single-breasted waistcoat of white quilting and trousers of grey striped Angola with narrow bands at the side seams.
Victorian
Promenade Suit
This costume features double-breasted reefer with a military stand-up collar and short three-cornered turnovers. The material of the jacket is a dark indigo-blue check with the edges finished by stitching. The pockets in the left breast and in the front skirts all have narrow welts at the top. The sleeve has a fixed cuff with an opening at the arm seam which closes by shaped tabs or straps. Suit includes trousers of chocolate brown stripe.
