Fancy Dress Party
Fifth Ave mansions, including the W.H. Vanderbilt residence.
THE VANDERBILT FANCY DRESS BALL, 1883
"It was the best-ordered, the most cool, delicately lighted,
and enjoyable fancy dress party ever given in New York."
IT is very rarely the case that an entertainment is so widely talked about
and so long and so eagerly anticipated as was this — a ball which had even
invited a rumor so disagreeable, even so frightful, as that the Communists
meant to attack the house and to sack it, with its immeasurable wealth of
jewelry, bric-à-brac, silver and gold, and objects d'arts, on this eventful
evening. It is seldom that such an entertainment goes off so serenely,
without accident and without a single untoward event, as did Mrs. W. K.
Vanderbilt's ball of March 26,1883.
The guests on arriving at the white marble doorway in Fifth Avenue for the fancy dress party were told
to order their carriages at four o'clock. All around the neighborhood a
black dense mass of figures waited to see the guests alight. A large force of policemen kept back this crowd, which looked dangerous. Whether the
great question of wealth versus poverty, which agitates all minds now, was
uppermost in their minds, or whether it was merely curiosity, one can not
say. It was a picturesque contrast — the cold gloomy night without, the
unrivalled light and luxury within.
Stuart Fancy Dress Costume
the Princess of Whales, as Mary Stuart, at the Waverley
Ball, wore a petticoat of cloth of gold embroidered with
pearls, a dress of ruby velvet with point-lace, the bodice
made with a satin habit-shirt quilted with pearls; the
sleeves with a puff at the shoulders coming to the wrist;
the bodice ruby velvet, the stomacher worked with precious
stones; head-dress of ruby velvet studded with diamonds and
pearls; veil of lisse, jeweled girdle, and fine parure of
jewels. Costume worn by the beautiful Countess of Bective at
one of her own fancy balls: Satin dress, front of gold
brocade covered with jewels, high bodice jeweled, jeweled
ruff, sleeves with puffings at the shoulders of gold brocade
and red velvet; train of ruby velvet bordered with ermine,
embroidered with fleurs-de-lis, etc.; white satin pointed
cap of the Marie Stuart form, covered with jewels.
As one entered the spacious hall for the fancy dress party, and was led by a powdered footman to the
wide staircase, a sense of vastness overcame the gazer. It was like Milan
cathedral, this wilderness of white marble and stained glass. The broad
staircase, like that in a feudal château, was wide enough for a troop of
cavalry to ride up, and with its gradual ascent, broken by frequent turns,
it might be ascended by horses. Indeed, a charge of the light brigade of
hobby-horses was made later down its splendid extent. The ladies were shown
into a grand state bedroom, where a four-poster hung in tapestry stood at
one end — just such a bed as one sees in palaces abroad, or in the pictures
by Lacroix. Out of this apartment opened a fairy-like dressing-room, all
mirror, painted over with apple blossoms, and with an alabaster bath-tub fit
for Undine to take her swim in. Beyond this room another magnificent
apartment opened, where sat a little nun writing, a regular "bonne soeur
bon secours", very pretty, and her black robes a contrast to the gay and
glittering dresses which constantly arrived.
Mary, Mary, Quite
Contrary Fancy Dress Costume
Pink quilted petticoat edged with
colored pictures of “pretty girls all in a row,” bordered
with silver cord; pink satin tunic with silver bells, having
garlands of cockle-shells and primroses; the bodice a low
square, with long sleeves trimmed to match; satin hat with
primroses, bells, and cockle-shells; silver châtelaine of
spade, hoe, rake, and watering-pot; tiny watering-pots for
earrings; cockle-shell necklace; mittens; high-heeled satin
Here gathered the ladies in their fancy dress costumes - Marie Stuart,
Lady Washington, Mother Goose, Mary Quite Contrary, Carolina Cornaro, a
Gypsy, and all the characters of the opéra bouffe, ready to go down to the fancy dress party when the
time came. It was eleven o'clock before the company descended to the
superb French drawing-room — a room à la Louis Quinze — where Mrs.
and Lady Maudeville sat to receive their guests. They had been standing
long, and were worn out. Both were in Venetian or Italian fancy dress costumes, Lady
Mandeville wholly in black, Mrs. Vanderbilt in light colors, with a
Milan bonnet covered with diamonds. The student of fancy dress costume will find this Milan
bonnet in Shakespeare's play of All's Well that Ends Well, in Knight's
Pictorial Shakespeare. It radiates from the face like a halo, and is very
becoming. Mr. Vanderbilt, the host, wore a superb fancy dress copy of the dress of
the Duke of Guise, the trunk-hose, long silk tights, and puffed sleeves,
being one of the most becoming dresses a gentleman ever wore, and in this
case especially so.
Lalla Rookh Fancy Dress Costume
A rich Oriental dress. Petticoat and trousers full to
ankles, of gold tissue over pink; long green satin skirted
paletot with over-sleeves trimmed with gold, girded round
the hip with orange and heliotrope scarves, ending in pearl
tassels; the front of the bodice pink, embroidered in gold,
silver, and jewels; pink under-sleeves. Green satin cap with
heron’s plume like a fez, fastened with jewels;
gold-spangled veil; green satin pointed shoes; the hair in
two plaits entwined with pearls, fringe of pearl and
emeralds round the neck; pointed sandals for shoes.
guests in fancy dress costumes of Lalla
Rookhs, knights, princes, and courtiers,
dukes, king., queens, fairies, peacocks, pheasants, and opéra bouffe "Monsieur le Diable" and "Madame le Diable" came in in groups to the fancy dress party, this scene
became enchanting. The next move was to the grand dining-room, with its
wonderful stained-glass window of the "Field of the Cloth of Gold," and
other almost equally beautiful windows, and its extraordinary height. It is a
banqueting hall of the Middle Ages, and is unusually magnificent. Its great
extent, the wonderful carving, the medieval fire-place, the carved buffets,
all made it a fitting spot for a fancy dress party.
Soon the groups began to wander to the grand staircase to
see the quadrilles come down in fancy dress. First the Hobby-horse Quadrille, wonderfully funny. The horses
and artificial outside legs of the riders, who were in the pink coats of the
hunting field, the long skirts of the lady riders, and the energy and élan of this dance, in which all the movements of the circus were laughably
attempted, gave the ball that spirit of fun which should ever open an
entertainment. After these energetic riders in fancy dress costumes had galloped off, the Mother
Goose Quadrille entered. This was a very pretty sight, as all our old
friends in fancy dress costumes - Tom, Tom, the Piper's Son, with the pig under his arm which he
feloniously had captured, and the Grenadier, and the Old Woman in a Shoe,
followed each other through the mazes. Then came the Opéra Bouffe Quadrille,
too mixed in color to be quite as effective as that which followed it, the
Dresden China Quadrille. All in purest white, in court dresses, with the
little mark of the two crossed swords hanging on their breasts, these
imitators of Dresden china made an effective sweep of white color in the
midst of medley.
Music Fancy Dress Costume
White satin dress
trimmed round the edge with tulle and black velvet, to
represent the keyboard of a piano, and above this two rows
of notes and lines formed with velvet and buttons; a scarf
draped across the skirt has the treble and bass clefs on the
fringed ends; the low bodice has winged sleeves, a lyre on
the shoulders and in front of the bertha, the same in the
centre of the coronet, and on the white satin shoes. Two
sisters might appear as Music and Painting. Or, soft dress
of crêpe de Chine, classic gown, the bodice low and full,
fringed with gold; belt embroidered with ivy leaves along
the top, the same carried round the pendent sleeves from
elbow: head-dress a crown with golden bars lined with blue;
a lyre carried in the hand.
They were all very handsome and effective people, the
dresses of white satin and brocade very pure and elegant; the powdered
wig — like the one worn by Frederick the Great— was most becoming, and the
dance was stately, elegant, and refined. This was the success of the
evening. After it came the Star Quadrille, a dance not so striking as the
last, but very pretty; it was danced by young ladies, each adorned with a
diamond star on the forehead, and with wands tipped with stars. The
electric light intended to add its radiance to this quadrille had to be
abandoned as a too uncertain guest.
The fancy dress party now began to present a saturnalia of color like a picture by
Alvarez. There were Cardinals of the Holy Roman Empire, Eastern Fakirs, and
officers of the Cent Garde, noblemen of every age and country, and Commander Gorringe as an Arab Sheik in his
best clothes. The women were resplendent in
diamonds. A Joan of Arc walked about in full armor; an Egyptian Princess with a gold Sphinx on her head maintained all the royal state of Queen Hashop, sister to Rameses I. Birds and hornets, butterflies and fishes,
mingled in the crowd. Yellow, that deep color of beaten gold, was seen in
profusion. Miss Fish wore the beautiful pointed cap of Mary of Burgundy, and
the long regal cloth of gold. Mrs. Paran Stevens in a red wig was
magnificent as Queen Elizabeth. Mrs. Pierre Lorillard wore a resplendent
dress as a Phoenix arising from its ashes. Mrs. Eliot F. Shepard was very
gorgeously arrayed as a Venetian Lady in high pearl collar. All the
Vanderbilt ladies were splendidly and correctly dressed.
One of the most effective fancy dress costumes of the night's fancy dress party was that of Richard M. Hunt, the
architect of this beautiful house, as Cimabue, from the painting by Giotto.
It was a happy thought, for the early Florentine dress of white and gold,
the hood and short cape, was one of the most distinctive dresses present.
How pleased must have been this man of genius to thus stand amid his
thoughts, now expressed in deathless marble, and to see a pageant pass far
finer than anything since the palmy days of Lorenzo de' Medici, in one of
the most gorgeous houses of modern times, into which he has brought the
learning, thought, and culture of all the ages!
Fire Fancy Dress Costume
Black tulle evening
dress over red silk, with tongues of flames formed of red
tinsel at the hem, fringed bodice and skirt covered with red
sequins, as also the veil; coronet of tinsel to resemble
flames; ornaments, garnets. Torch carried in hand. It may
also be carried out with black and crimson velvet
embroidered with flames, or in flame-colored and orange
Comet Fancy Dress Costume
Long blue satin train draped with stars, spangled yellow
gauze, the front of the lightest shade of gold, trimmed with
gold fringe; blue gauze cuirass bodice shot with amber,
bordered with stars; hair flowing, a star of electric light
in front; star ornaments.
Ice Fancy Dress Costume
A short white satin dress, draped with crystal fringe,
icicles, silver tissue or swansdown, and tulle; spangled
silver veil. Hair covered with powdered glass; icicle
wreath; shoes and stockings embroidered with crystal beads.
Long gloves; bracelets and chains of icicles, girdle of
same. Tiny silver bells, frosted holly, and a robin
redbreast nestling on shoulder may be added.
Another effective and well-carried-out fancy dress costume at that night's fancy dress party, was that of a Chinaman. A
veritable Indian chief's dress, fresh from the plains, was very effective. A
"Daughter of the Forest," with the skin of an animal wrapped around her,
with ferns and butterflies and jewelled lizards, was exceedingly striking.
Then came the eccentric fancy dress costumes — Fire, Ice, Snow, and the Comet. Black and
cream-colored was the Comet, with streaks of gold thread artistically woven
through, and an embroidered comet on the skirt; the hair, wild and flowing,
had streamers of gold radiating. Mrs. Cornelius Vanderbilt was very charming
as the Electric Light, Fire was illustrated by a curious gleaming red
substance which flamed up the skirt and around the neck; it was an
impressive dress; and the lady wore those now rare old-fashioned deep orange
topazes which our grandmothers loved. Snow is, of course, always simulated
by eider down and the frequent interpolation of crystals or diamonds.
Amongst these impersonal dresses one to resemble Music was most ingenious. A
dress of white satin, trimmed with five rows of black velvet like the music
staff, had here and there musical notation; the bodice, cut low and square,
was trimmed with little brass musical instruments; a music scale was
embroidered on the bodice; the cap of red satin was trimmed with triangles,
bells, and balls. The lady carried a Spanish mandolin. Then came Autumn with
her grapes — a beautiful dress — Spring with her apple blossoms, and a lovely
dress called "Cherry Ripe," in which red cherries, white blossoms, and the
"overhanging bough" were all realized in flowers and embroidery.
Spring Fancy Dress Costume
a green or white dress trimmed with spring flowers, daisies,
primroses, crocuses, and violets; a gossamer veil falling
over the shoulders, a wreath of the same; the flowers maybe
arranged round the skirt in a lattice-work, the tunic edged
with a fringe of green grass. Less hackneyed renderings are
as follows; Green silk short skirt trimmed with snowdrops
and violets; white polonaise and low bodice, with long
hanging sleeves caught up on one side by a swallow; a ruff
of lace and flowers round the neck; green and white cap with
flowers; green satin shoes.
Then came the religious orders in fancy dress. Mr. Hurlburt, of the World, had an
especially correct and beautiful costume as a Spanish Knight of Calatrava,
a sort of religious Knight Templar order, with long white cloak, with black
satin hood, red cross on the arm, and a black velvet suit of the
seventeenth century, with collars and cuffs of old point de Venise. This was
one of the most striking of all the dresses. Capuchin Friars and splendid
Cardinals elbowed each other at every turn.
The stage, of course, afforded the ideas for the greatest number of fine
fancy dress costumes. Mr. Hewitt, our well-known Congressman, went as King Lear, with his
mind, and with his three daughters. Mr. and Mrs. Laurence Turnure were
splendid as Huguenots. Miss Townsend, as the Fairy Queen in Iolanthe, wore
a very handsome dress, white embroidered in gold. Madame Nilsson came as
The opéra bouffe as we have said, sent many representatives. The Comic de
Brie, Charles Surface in the School for Scandal, Romeo, the Huguenot Count
de Mole, Marguerite in Faust, and Harlequin all had their copyists.
Historical characters like Sir Walter Raleigh, Don Carlos, Christopher
Columbus, and Charleses I, II, and IX all were in order. Henri Deux is
the most picturesque of kings to copy. There were no classical dresses, no
Greek, Roman, or Neo-Greek white draperies; the absence was conspicuous.
There were some very fine knights in armor, especially one, Mr. Hoyt, who
married a daughter of Chief Justice Chase; his dress of chain-armor of the
time of Edward the Black Prince was very much admired. Mr. Butler Johnstone,
the owner of the Raphael at the Museum, personated in a beautiful dress of
the age of Louis XII., dead gold satin embroidered in gold, gray hat, and
white plume, the Marshal Tribulzi of Milan.
But all this glory was human, and needed supper. Ascending again the grand
staircase to the third story, a banqueting hall was discovered in a large
room called the Gymnasium. Here the walls were lined with roses, and the
most fabulous floral display made this room as redolent of nature as the
lower rooms had been of art.
Joan of Arc Fancy Dress Costume
White plaited cashmere skirt; a suit of armour, with helmet
and plume, mailed feet, gloves; red cloak on shoulders. Or,
as she appeared at the coronation of the French King, skirt
and tunic of clue satin, spangled with fleurs-de-lys; silver
helmet with white plume; coat of mail, mail on arms,
gauntlets, feet encased in long boots; sword with cross on
hilt, and shield; the hair floating on shoulders. The suit
of armour may be of silver, burnished steel, or what is
called scale armour. But it can also be made by cutting out
in strong brown paper the various pieces required, copied
from an illustrated history, or from Knight’s “Shakespeare,”
pasted over with silvered paper, and strips of linen inside
strengthen them, so that tapes may be sewn with which to tie
them on. The hair should be rolled under, after the manner
formerly called Joan of Arc; and a cloak of cashmere to
match the skirt should float from the shoulders.
Here sat a lady in the dress of Madame Thermidor, of that eccentric dress
of the French Revolution (not quite the Incroyables, but as eccentric),
looking delightfully pretty in an enormous hat, talking to a Venetian of
1450 and to Don Carlos. Blue-Beard and the Phoenix took a glass of champagne
together, and two of the most extravagant Incroyables walked and talked with
my Lady Washington; a dignified Queen's Counsel joked with Joan of Arc and
with Monsieur le Diable, and so on; the contrasts were endless.
The supper was luxurious in the extreme, and it was long after daylight
before the superb French château of Mr. W. K. Vanderbilt had been cleared
of its motley troop and late revellers.
It was the best-ordered, the most cool, delicately lighted, and enjoyable
fancy dress party ever given in New York; and for magnificence, quite unprecedented, and
creditable to host and hostess.
[Photograph of Fifth
of Congress, Prints and Photographs Division, Reproduction Number:
[Color prints and Costume Description from: Fancy Dresses
Described, Arden Holt, 1896.]