Victorian Undersleeve in French Embroidery

"Our illustration gives a style for embroidery which we have not yet seen here, and the effect of which is rich and striking. The running pattern is to be worked in satin-stitch, well raised and solid, so as to contrast with the open ground, the one forming the relief of the other. This ground is entirely composed of cut-out holes."

[GODEY'S LADY'S BOOK AND MAGAZINE, 1857]

The leaves and flowers of this pattern must be worked with embroidery cotton, in satin-stitch, in the direction and number of the lines laid down in the engraving; the stems are to be sewn over broader at the bottom, and lessening towards the points. The cups of the flowers should have three lines of cotton running the contrary way, before working, to raise the middle of each division. The middle of the large flower must be filled in with English lace, or if net is laid under it will look as well. The circles on the upper side and the centers of the small flowers should have the English rosette; the leaf with English bars, and the calyx of the large flower with Brussels lace. The round holes in the large flowers to be made with a stiletto, and afterwards sewn round in button-hole stitch. This will make a very beautiful pattern for either the middle of a habit-shirt, band, insertion, or any general purpose.