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"The Winter Millinery"

NEVER have hats been more attractive or so generally becoming, and while a great deal of lace and other trimming characterizes some of the smartest importations, so cleverly is it employed that, in most instances, a simple effect results. Plumes are to have a triumphal career during the entire season. They are shown in all lengths, from tips to long plumes formed by joining two invisibly. There is a variety of ways in which to arrange plumes, but the preference is to place them low at the back; they start underneath the brim or on its upper side and are bunched at one side of the front, or fall low over the left shoulder in Cavalier fashion. A single plume may be used or one starting from each side of the front and drooping low at the back.

 
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Wings and cock feathers are also adjusted in this becoming fashion. Bird of Paradise plumes distinguish many of the best creations, and little other trimming is used with them. They are shown in exquisite colors, some shading from the palest tone to the darkest. Purple is especially favored, and when used to trim a hat of dark purple velvet or chenille is wonderfully pleasing.

The imported models, which show a lavish use of flowers, have set the seal of approval on floral trimmings, and as in past seasons the rose has the preference, although every blossom of the garden is seen. The flowers are made of velvet and in realistic colorings.

Cabochons of mock coral, turquoise and malachite encircled by crystals are an important item in millinery, and beautiful buckles of cut steel and jet swell the list of ornamental conceits.

The new millinery material called damas dentelle is a sort of silk damask in designs of frisé figures set in simulated lace; it requires little trimming, a rich plume being the wisest choice, with perhaps a bit of creamy lace to form the brim facing and soften the material.

The felt hat has attained a position it has not held for some time and is even a dressy affair when richly trimmed. Some of the smartest felt shapes are distinguished by a rough or hairy surface and are called camel's-hair or mohair felts. The long-nap beaver adapts itself to curves and graceful lines. The large white beaver hat with its trimming of white plumes is intended for carriage and calling wear.

Turbans are fashioned of felt cloth draped over wire frames, and when the work is cleverly done it achieves a distinction not attainable in stiff felt hats.

After all, velvet is the leading material for the dressy hat. The latest velvet novelties show a crushed surface with panne finish in moiré effect and also in imitation of' Persian lamb. There is a wealth of coloring in these materials, and the shade of the gown may be successfully copied in the hat.

The all-black hat is, perhaps, not quite so much in favor as previously, and there is a tendency to enliven it with white plumes or even with plumes audaciously gay in color. The white plumes on white hats are prone to shade into gayer color on the end, and many charming possibilities are suggested by them. Plumes in blending shades of one hue are used for costume hats, the colors matching those of the gown with which the hat is worn.

The high crown is an important factor in Winter millinery and threatens the popularity of the plateau that has ruled the Summer shapes. The extremes in the new styles need not be adopted, but almost all of the new models have at least a slight crown.

A trimming for the new broad-brimmed shape is wide, velvet ribbon drawn around the crown and held in flat loops by a large square buckle of jet or cut steel. White or colored backed ribbon is preferably used.

A particularly stylish turban is made of chenille and felt braid in a blue shade; it is boat-shaped and two shaded blue wings starting at the middle of the hat on each side and beading down to press closely against the hair at the back form the only trimming. This hat would be charming with a black tailor gown, or it might accompany a rich cloth costume in a shade to match the material used in the hat.

A delightful hat with broad, drooping brim and low, wide crown is made entirely of the tiniest plaiting of taffeta in a pinkish mauve shade. A trailing wreath of asters that shade from a deep purple to almost white encircles the crown and falls in short loops at the back. This hat is suited only to youthful wearers.

Quills provide an attractive trimming for the street or walking hat, and those shown this season are in a variety of shapes and colors, the smartest being rather broad, with blunt, round ends, and either shaded or plaid. A simple dark hat may be given a pleasing touch by a broad quill of dark blue, red, brown or green at its base and shading to the lightest tone of the same color at the tip.

The black-and-white hat remains popular, and the woman who aims to be correct in her attire, yet whose dress allowance is limited, will choose her headgear in this smart combination, which accords with a variety of gowns. An especially attractive example is made of black velvet. The crown is low, and the brim suggests the tricorne. At the left side, where the brim rolls high, is a rosette of white silk ribbon which conceals the end of a long white plume extending around the back to the right side and caught with a jet buckle. The brim is faced with shirred taffeta.

Brown is very fashionable this season, and a hat of brown velvet trimmed with a long plume shading from a deep brown to beige is a fitting accompaniment to the brown costume that will undoubtedly be included in the Winter outfit.

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